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Our trip struck a minor
sour chord to start with when the taxi driver, who had just dropped
a couple of us off at John F. Kennedy International Airport, sped
away with Professor Goldman's guitar in tow. Without music, but
determined that our band of 16 students, led by Rabbi Paley and
his wife, must play on, we climbed aboard El Al Flight LY0014 for
the almost 11-hour flight to Tel Aviv.
The flight was smooth,
some slept others did not, but all emerged bleary eyed in Tel Aviv.
We filed through immigrations and out into the warm Israeli sun
that greeted us with temperatures in the high sixties.
Professor Goldman, who
had arrived two days earlier, welcomed us and introduced us to Jeff
Abel, our guide for the first three days of our journey through
the Holy Land. During the 45-minute bus ride from the airport to
our first destination, Abu Gosh, Abel told of the history of this
ancient land, pointing out certain sites and threading them into
his lessons. It was information we had all learned during the first
half of the semester, but to see the terrain first hand provided
a layer one cannot get in books or lectures.
Abu Gosh is an Arab village
that is famous because it is the site of Kiryat Ye'arim (Town of
Forests) where the Ark of the Covenant was kept for 20 years before
King David moved it to Jerusalem (I Chronicles 13:5-8). Issa Jaber,
a local Muslim Arab, took us up to the hill where the Notre Dame
de l'Arche (Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant) Church sits overlooking
the town. Among olive trees that have stood for 1,500 years we listened
to Jaber explain that we were sitting on the same spot that King
David had sung and danced in front of the arc before bringing it
13-kilometers to Jerusalem.
Jaber not only spoke
of history, but also the present. He proudly told of the tolerance
of the present day community of Abu Gosh, which along with its Arab
majority is home to Christians and Jews. "We present a very unique
model of people living together, of people of different backgrounds
who respect each other and can coexist on the same land," Jaber
said.
Jaber then brought us
to his home, where we met Dr. Ron Kronish, an ordained rabbi, who
came to Israel from the United States in 1979. Kronish is the director
of the Interreligious Coordinating Council In Israel, a non-profit
association that seeks to bring better religious and cultural understanding
between Christians, Jews and Muslims. "Politicians alone will not
solve all our problems," said Kornish. He spoke about the peace
process. Even though regional leaders currently are not at the bargaining
table, said Kornish, his group is continuing interfaith dialogue,
something that he believes is instrumental for understanding that
will translate to a lasting peace. It is a dream he hopes will be
realized in his lifetime.
Accompanied by Kornish,
a sudden driving rain and the background sounds of a sermon from
a nearby Mosque playing over loud speakers, we enjoyed lunch at
the nearby Caravan Inn. Buoyed by our meal, we headed for Jerusalem.
The Dan Pearl Hotel,
our first accommodation in Israel, sits just yards from the walls
of the Old City of Jerusalem. Led by Rabbi Paley and Professor Goldman
we ventured through the Armenian and Jewish Quarters towards the
Western Wall, a stone wall that has stood since King Herod constructed
the Second Temple in 20 BC.
The sun was quickly falling
and hundreds of Jews marched toward the most holy of all Jewish
sites for the prayers of the Sabbath. Upon arriving at the Western
Wall, many of us chose to venture among worshippers who were joyfully
singing and dancing. Others at the Western Wall were dutifully chanting
and bobbing from the waist up in prayer. Their faces were just inches
from the worn crevices of the massive stones that house thousands
of small paper-notes upon which are scrawled the prayers of people
from all over the world. Illuminated by spotlights and an incredibly
bright, full moon we soaked in the scene for 45-minutes.
As we walked back to
the hotel, our professors pointed out preserved Roman streets and
towering walls built by the Ottomans. Famished by our incredible
first day we sat down for bread, wine and dinner all blessed by
Rabbi Paley in the Sabbath tradition. The blessing included singing
songs and we all joined in, although many of us, not knowing the
words, hummed along. However, we now knew that you do not need a
guitar to make sweet music in Israel.
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