[*crossing the equator*; *funerals at sea*; *the Cape*]

[[55]] A few days before an arrival on this coast, when it comes within the scope of the voyage, the usual ceremonies attendant upon crossing the Line are duly observed. Those who have never sailed so far to the southward are impressed with the belief that sundry operations by no means pleasant are to take place. Among other things, they may expect to be suspended from the fore-yard-arm, and thoroughly ducked by frequent dips into the sea.

However unreasonable this may appear, there exists no doubt of such a practice having been perfectly common about sixty years ago. It was then regarded as an excellent joke, affording wonderous merriment to the veteran part of the crew. In time, the practice ceased; either from the interposition of good sense, or owing to the judicious distribution of some liquor among the chiefs of the dramatis personae. 

The Sabbath is always observed on board every Indiamen with perfect decorum. Having no chaplain on board, unless perchance as a passenger, the captain, or one of the officers, reads the morning service, succeeded by a short lecture suited to the audience, who consist of all on board not confined by illness. The decency prevailing on such occasions is exemplary; the whole standing bare-headed on the quarter-desk and refraining from every act or look that might trespass on propriety. 

It has already been stated that in rounding the Cape, the weather may be expected to correspond with the season of the year. This is so well understood, that only during the summer season in that quarter are vessels considered safe in Table Bay, situated to the north of a low, flat, sandy isthmus, over which the sea appears to have flowed formerly into False Bay, lying a few miles to the southward.

The mouths of the two bays have different aspects. Thus when that channel existed, the Table Mountain, whence the northerly bay derives its designation, together with Cape Town, which stands between the mountain and that bay, together with Wineburg, Wittiboom, Constantia, &c. &c., including a length of about forty-five miles by four, on an average, in breadth, must have been insulated.

When a ship is to touch at the Cape, it is very desirable on every account that her arrival should take place during the summer season, so that she may come to anchor in Table Bay, about half a mile distant from the wharf. The convenience thus afforded, of going immediately into comfortable lodgings, where nothing is wanting which can tend to the refreshment of persons fatigued by a confinement within such narrow limits, probably for ten or twelve weeks, is not to be calculated. 

Few of those who take lodgers will admit such as do not board with them. The rates are not fixed, but the average may be taken at from three to four rix-dollars for each lady or gentleman, half-price for young children, and one dollar for each servant, per diem. Thus a single gentleman must be an economist, to pay his expenses of board, washing, horse-hire, &c., under thirty [[57]] shillings daily. The rix-dollar is fixed at four shillings; but is an imaginary sum. Notes of any value may be had; but gold and silver currency are scarcely ever seen; the Dutch being extremely eager to obtain guineas at twenty-one shillings currency, and re-sell them at the rate generally of six and a half or seven rix-dollars.

Persons visiting the Cape should be careful to reserve their cash till about to pay their bills, and then to account their gold coin at its current value, as above shewn. Such is the estimation in which bullion is held, that no small coins are any where to be seen; even shillings and silvers are paid in paper currency. Passengers from India ought to take a bag of rupees of the worst description; for whether (sikku) sicca or (trisoolee) tersooly, such will be gladly received, without distinction, at two shillings and sixpence.

The cookery of the Dutch is nearly on a par with their flesh-meats. Their beef, mutton, veal, and pork, is rarely of tolerable quality, and invariably made to float in strong sauce, of which butter and spices are the chief ingredients. The table is, in most houses, laid in [a] central hall, looking into a garden. The floors are all painted, that they may not absorb the damp when washed, as they are almost daily; the beds tolerably good, and the apartments of a moderate size.

Before every house is an elevated terrace, on a level with the ground-floor, having at each end a seat, usually of masonry also. On this terrace, called the steupe, the Dutch promenade half the day in fair weather, enjoying their pipes, and occasionally taking their sopkies. These are small glasses of raw spirits, for the most part hollands, which their servants tender, at intervals, as a matter of course.

The extensive gardens of the late Dutch Company, [[58]] through the centre of which is a broad gravel-walk, full half a mile in length, are crowded, on Sunday evenings and on all festive days, by a promiscuous [=mixed] group, walking under the shade of the oaks and other trees planted on either side. There is also an institution, but of a more private nature, and frequented with few exceptions by the Dutch only. It is held at a neat house, where wines, &c., are sold, having attached to it a spacious garden; not unlike some of our tea-drinking places in the vicinity of London, and is called Concordia. 

 Many of the farms, within a morning's ride, are well worth seeing, not as objects of imitation, but as displaying much novelty, and affording a just idea of the character of a Dutch agriculturist in that quarter. The vineyards and depots of wine at Constantia are remarkable; especially considering that the soil which produces that luscious wine is confined to a very few acres, probably not more than forty; beyond which, sets from the same vines, under circumstances of perfect equality, in regard to site and culture, produce a very different liquor, little superior to that sold at the several wine-houses at sixpence per quart, and possessing a peculiar terraceous flavour, which does not diminish by keeping.

The stranger not habituated to the use of the Cape wines, either white or red, should be extremely cautious on his first arrival to avoid them; and to drink port. A neglect of this precaution will produce considerable inconvenience, and may be attended with habitual diarrhoea.

Many whalers frequent the coast to the eastward of the Cape, where they kill numbers of the white species, which supply spermaceti and the oil bearing that name. In False Bay, including a space at least equal to two hundred square miles, black whales may often be seen [[59]] sporting about; as, indeed, they may in Table Bay, close in among the rocks, about half a mile below the fort. A few are killed by the crews of such ships as have not been so fortunate as to be filled with the former kind; but this seems almost as much for pastime as profit: the oil extracted from black whales being very low in price; as neither burning well, nor making so good soap as the spermaceti kind.

Although the winter months are held to be very dangerous for vessels riding in Table Bay, from the dreadful swell sometimes setting in from the north-west, towards which it is much exposed, it is, however, rare that vessels are lost therein during that season. This may, no doubt, be attributed to their very short stay, as they usually proceed to Seamon's Bay, the inhabited part of which is about twenty-five miles from Cape Town. The Sceptre, of 64 guns, together with a Danish 74, and about ten or twelve other vessels, were wrecked in Table Bay on the 5th of November 1799; a period when a gale of wind from the north-west is never expected.

To make up for the deficiency, that part of the year is attended with very stiff breezes from the south-east, which drive up the small gravel against one's face with such force as to give most acute pain. These south-easters, as they are called, certainly produce excellent effects: cooling the air, and destroying a vast number of insects.

Nature has been truly liberal in the profusion of flowers she has scattered throughout this part of Africa. The plains are covered with heaths, or heathers, of an exquisite fragrance, of boundless variety, and of the most delicate colouring and formation. The whole country, where the soil is not absolutely barren, teems with all that could enrich a pleasure-garden. Among these, the [[60]] wild geraniums bear a large proportion: the plain beyond the camp at Wineburg absolutely resembling a rich carpet! 

 Few ships remain long enough to allow of passengers proceeding to the interior; where, however, they would find much to admire. At some of the farms they may be well accommodated, with the great advantage of finding their purses far less burdensome on their return. The famous vineyards of Stellenbosch are well worth seeing, as is the Salt Lake, which annually dries, leaving a bed of muriate of soda many miles in diameter, and of unknown depth. Surely, in parts accounted sterile, such a depot of manure ought not to be overlooked.

The hot baths, situated in a most romantic valley, about forty miles from the Cape, demand the traveller's attention. Whether he proceed on horseback or in a waggon, a gun will be useful, on account of the prodigious quantity of game of every description, and as a defence against the numerous wild beasts which infest all the woody country beyond Hottentot Holland.