264          SOCIETY AS I HAVE  FOUND  IT.

Camembert cheese, with a biscuit, with
which you serve your Burgundy, your old
Port, or your Johannisberg, the only place
in the dinner where you can introduce this
latter wine. A genuine Johannisberg, I
may say here, by way of parenthesis, is
rare in this country, for if obtained at the
Chateau, it is comparatively a dry wine; if
It Is, as I have often seen it, still lusciously
sweet after having been here twenty years
or more, you may be sure it is not a genu¬
ine Chateau wine.

The French always give a hot pudding,
as pudding suedoise, or a croute au Madere,
or ananas, but I always omit this dish to
shorten the dinner. Then come your Ices.
The fashion now Is to make them very
ornamental, a cornucopia for Instance, but
I prefer a poiiding Nesselrode, the best of
all the Ices If good cream is used.